Facts About Goa

Architecture

The architecture of Goa is a combination of Indian, Mughal and Portuguese styles. Since the Portuguese ruled for four centuries, many churches and houses bear a striking element of the Portuguese style of architecture. Goa was also under the Mughal rule and thus one finds monuments built in the typical Mughal style complete with the domes. The typical Goan architecture is very simple and easy going and is visible in buildings like modern

By the end of the 18th century, there was a change in the style of the buildings of Goa. Though the Portuguese essence remained, there was an overdose of colors and usage of tiles increased. Blue and red turned out to be favorite colors with many houses being painted in bright blues and the roofs being covered by red tiles. The houses are usually large and have spacious rooms with windows for ventilation. Each house also has a separate room or secluded space for keeping the idol or photographs of their Gods

The height of Goa's glory was mutually linked with the Portuguese, but the Goan grandeur predated the Portuguese. Chieftains, kings and a host of Indian dynasties had made this little jewel glitter with royal pomp. The Batpuras, the Bhujas, Ashoka, the Mauryas and the Satyavahanas have ruled over Goa. The inscription of around A.D.1000 (when Shashtadeva of the Goa Kadamba dynasty sat on the throne), describes the early splendor of the capital: 'Gardens on every side. White plastered houses, alleys, horse stables, flower gardens, markets, harlots' quarters, and tanks.' In his son's reign, Goa is reputed to have commanded a powerful fleet and traded with fourteen foreign lands. In essence, it was a coveted land with the most sought after port in India. And as the word spread, this advantage was to become a liability. The friendly harbours that had sent out sparkling blue ripples to the world were to backflow and become the road of conquest and colonization.

The Portuguese brought to Goa the magnificence of the West and the might of a nation at the height of its imperial power. Their vision was lofty and ambition sky high, but it blazed a short trail like a meteor. An art historian remarked, 'Portugal was a very small nation of a heroic people. However, at its peak, Goa was one of the wonders of the world, larger than Lisbon and even the London of its time! Some 300,000 people had made it their home. Goa resembled the 'meeting upon the burse in Antwerpe' wrote Linschoten, the Dutchman, and it was then that epithets like 'Rome of Asia' and 'Pearl of the Orient' were coined. 'Goa Dourada' or 'Golden Goa' sands was not an advertising slogan to beckon tourists, but more precisely the gilt-coated reredos and altars in the churches that displayed layers of the real gold Portugal had discovered in Africa.

Contemporary descriptions do not undertake this glitter. 'Quem viu Goa escusa de ver Lisboa', the word went round, 'Who has seen Goa needn't see Lisbon.' In 1606 Goa got Santa Monica, the first nunnery in the East. The imposing Basilica of Bom Jesus impressed Christians and non-Christians alike. Fantastic Italian architecture typically renaissance modelled on architectural details from the churches circled the city's skyline. There were compulsory orders to paint the mansions annually, after the monsoon had passed. The regulations insisted that although white may be used for picking out architectural details like quoins and cornices, and window edges and balustrades to contrast with the wall surfaces of yellow-ochre, Indian red or pale green, no buildings but churches might be white all over. In 1839, Caption Marryat in his novel The Phantom Ship de described Goa: 'The squares behind the palace and the wide streets were filled with living beings: elephants with gorgeous trappings; led or mounted horses with superb housings; palanquins carried by natives in splendid liveries; running footmen; syces; every variety of nation, from the proud Portuguese to the half-covered native; Musselmen, Arabs, Hindoos, Armenians; Officers and soldiers in their uniforms, all crowded and thronged together: all was bustle and motion. Such was the wealth, the splendor and luxury of the proud city of Goa - the Empress of the East.

Climate

Month	Avg. High	Avg. Low	Precipitation
January	32.0° C (89.6°F)	20.0° C (67.8°F)	0.0 mm
February	32.0° C (89.1°F)	21.0° C (69.3°F)	0.0 mm
March	32.0° C (90.0°F)	23.0° C (73.8°F)	1.0 mm
April	33.0° C (91.6°F)	26.0° C (77.9°F)	5.0 mm
May	33.0° C (92.1°F)	27.0° C (79.7°F)	56.0 mm
June	30.0° C (86.5°F)	25.0° C (76.6°F)	891.0 mm
July	29.0° C (84.4°F)	24.0° C (75.7°F)	853.0 mm
August	29.0° C (83.7°F)	24.0° C (75.2°F)	622.0 mm
September	30.0° C (85.6°F)	24.0° C (75.2°F)	237.0 mm
October	32.0° C (89.2°F)	24.0° C (75.0°F)	111.0 mm
November	33.0° C (91.2°F)	22.0° C (72.0°F)	35.0 mm
December	33.0° C (90.9°F)	21.0° C (69.8°F)	2.0 mm

Customs

The usual duty-free regulations for India apply in Goa: 1L of spirits and 200 cigarettes (or 50 cigars, or 250g of tobacco).

You're allowed to bring in all sorts of technological gadgets, but expensive items such as video cameras are likely to be entered on a Tourist Baggage Re-Export (TBRE) form to ensure you take them out when you leave, Failure to declare such items upon departure may mean a payable duty.

Demography

A native of Goa is called a Goan in English, Goenkar in Konkani, Goes (male) or Goesa (female) in Portuguese, and a Govekar in Marathi. Goa has a population of 1.344 million residents, making it India's fourth smallest (after Sikkim, Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh). The population has a growth rate of 14.9% per decade. There are 363 people for each square kilometre of the land. 49.77% of the population lives in urban areas. The literacy rate of Goa is over 82%. The sex ratio is 960 females to 1000 males. The birth rate is 15.70 per 1,000 people in 2007.

Embassies and Consulates

Related Links

• Indian Missions Abroad

Economy

Tourism is Goa's primary industry: it handles 12% of all foreign tourist arrivals in India. Goa has two main tourist seasons: winter and summer. In the winter time, tourists from abroad (mainly Europe) come to Goa to enjoy the splendid climate. In the summer time (which, in Goa, is the rainy season), tourists from across India come to spend the holidays. Tourism is generally focused on the coastal areas of Goa, with decreased tourist activity inland. In 2004, there were more than 2 million tourists reported to have visited Goa, 400,000 of which were from abroad.

The land away from the coast is rich in minerals and ores and mining forms the second largest industry. Mining in Goa focuses on ores of iron, Bauxite, manganese, clays, limestone and silica. The Marmagao Port handled 31.69 million tonnes of cargo last year, and accounts for over 39% of India's Iron Ore exports.

Agriculture, while of shrinking importance to the economy over the past four decades, offers part-time employment to a sizable portion of the populace. Rice is the main agricultural crop, followed by areca, cashew and coconut. The fishing industry provides employment for about forty thousand people, though recent official figures indicate a decline of the importance of this sector and also a fall in catch, perhaps coupled with the fact that traditional fishing has given way to large-scale mechanised trawling.

Medium scale industries include the manufacturing of pesticides, fertilisers, tyres, tubes, footwear, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, wheat products, steel rolling, fruits and fish canning, cashew nuts, textiles, brewery products.

Goa is also notable for its low liquor prices due to its very low excise duty on alcohol. Another source of cash inflow into the state comes from many of its citizens who work abroad and remit money to their families.

Festivals and Events

Goa could easily be called India's festival state. At times it can seem as though there are as many holidays as working days. Along with Hindu festivals, Goans celebrate myriad Christian festivals - not only Christmas and Easter, but also many feast days specific to certain villages or parishes, as well as truly Goan events such as the Feast of 5t Francis Xavier. On top of this, more recent food and cultural festivals have been developed during the winter season to capitalise on Goa's tourist numbers. Whereas most Christian festivals occur on set dates, Hindu festivals follow the lunar calendar and change from year to year.

January

Feast of the Three Kings On 6 January at the villages of Reis Magos, Cansaulim and Chandor, local boys re-enact the arrival of the three kings with gifts for Christ. A church service is followed by food and entertainment.

Republic Day The anniversary 01 India's establishment as a republic in 1950 is on 26 January; though Goa was not involved it is celebrated anyway (Goans don't miss a chance to rejoice!).

Fontainhas Arts Festival Homes in the Fontainhas district are turned into galleries for this exhibition of Goan and Indian art. Held some time between January and March.

February/March

Pop, Beat & Jazz Music Festival Held over two days in February at the Kala Academy in Panaji.

Shigmotsav (Shigmo) Goa's version of Holi, this Hindu festival marks the end of winter. It normally takes place on the full-moon day of the month of Phalguna (February/ March), and is widely celebrated by gangs of youths throwing coloured water and powder at one another. Don't wear your best clothes; tourists frequently becorne a target. Shigmo parades, with processions of colorful floats, are often held in Panaji, Margao, Mapusa and Vasco da Gama.

Carnival Originally a celebration of the arrival of spring, and a Catholic festival on the three days before Lent began, Carnival is now just one big party and one of Goa's maddest events. In Panaji festivities centre on a procession of colorful floats, which takes place on Saba do Gordo (Fat Saturday). The event is opened by the arrival of King Momo, who makes a traditional decree ordering his subjects to forget their worries and have a good time.

March/April

Ramanavami The birth of Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu, is celebrated at the temple in Partagal.

Procession of All Saints Held in Goa Velha on the fifth Monday in Lent, this is the only procession of its sort outside Rome. Thirty statues of the saints are paraded around neighboring villages. The main road through Goa Velha becomes blocked with the traffic as people from all over Goa are drawn to the fair that takes place.

Good Friday & Easter Huge church services are held throughout Goa; the big congregations often overflow onto the street, or services are held outside to accommodate everyone. Christians mark the event with large family gatherings.

Feast of Jesus of Nazareth Held at Sindao on the first Sunday after Easter.

Feast of Our Lady of Miracles Held in Mapusa, 16 days after Easter; famous for its celebration by both Hindus and Christians.

Beach Bonanza On Sundays from mid-April onwards, this tourist-oriented festival of music, dancing and food stalls was originally held on the beach at Colva but has now been moved back to the football ground in the village. Youth Fete Much the same as the Beach Bonanza, but on Calangute beach.

May/June

Igitun Chaine One of the most distinctive festivals in Goa, this is specific to the temple in Sirigao (near Corjurem Fort in Bicholim taluka), and is held in May.lgltun chaine literally means 'fire-walking', and the high point of the festival comes when devotees of the goddess Lairaya walk across a pit of burning coals to prove their devotion. Feast of St Anthony St Anthony is Portugal's national saint, and the festival, held on 13 June, has taken on a particular significance in Goa. It is said that if the monsoon has not arrived by the time of the feast day, a statue of the saint should be lowered into the family well to hasten the arrival of the rain.

Feast of St John the Baptist (Sao Joao) Held on 24 June, this is a thanksgiving for the arrival of the monsoon. To mark the event the young men of the community jump into the water. Traditionally, each well owner must supply feni (alcoholic drink) to the swimmers.

Feast of St Peter & St Paul The fishing community, particularly in Bardez taluka, celebrates the monsoon on 29 June. Boats are tied together to form rafts, which serve as makeshift stages. After a morning church service and a large feast, the sangodd (bonding festival) is held, and tiatrs (local Konkani dramas), folk dances and music are performed before an audience that watches from the banks of the river.

August/September

Independence Day Anniversary of India's independence from the UK in 1947, held on 15 August.

Feast of St Lawrence Celebration of the end of the monsoon and the reopening of the Mandovi to river traffic. Gokul Ashtami The celebration of Krishna's birthday in some Krishna temples the deity is symbolically placed in a cradle.

Bonderam Celebrated on Divar Island on the fourth Saturday of August. Processions and mock battles commemorate the disputes that took place over property on the island.

Navidades An offering of the first sheaves of rice is made to the head of state on 24 August.

Ganesh Chaturthi An important Hindu festival celebrated throughout the state to commemorate the birth of Ganesh. The festival can last for 2 ½days. Clay models of Ganesh are taken in procession around the areas of the temples, before being immersed in water. A period of fasting is observed.

September/October

Fama de Menino Jesus Celebrates the 'miraculous' favors granted by the 'Menino Jesus', which resides within the Church of Our Lady of Mercy; the festival occurs in Colva on the second Monday of October.

October/November

Diwali Hindu festival, also known as the Festival of Lights. Second in importance only to Ganesh Chaturthi, this marks the victory of good over evil. Symbolically, lamps are lit morning and evening within the homes of worshippers. Govardhana Puja This Hindu festival is dedicated to that holiest of animals, the cow.

November/December

Liberation Day Held on 17 December, this day commemorates the end of Portuguese colonial rule.

Marathi Drama Festival Held from November to December at the Kala Academy in Panaji.

Food & Cultural Festival Five-day festival held on Miramar beach in November or December to highlight Goan cuisine and entertainment.

Konkani Drama Festival Held at Kala Academy in November and December.

Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary A feast held on the third Wednesday of November at Navelim, 5km south of Margao.

Tiatr Festival Held at the Kala Academy in November. Goa Heritage Festival A two-day event of Goan food, folk music and dancing held in Panaji's Campal district in late November.

Feast of St Francis Xavier Celebrated in Old Goa with processions and services on 3 December.

Feast of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception On or around 8 December in Panaji and Margao, the feast is accompanied by a large fair.

Christmas Day On 24 December, Goa's Catholics flock to midnight mass services, traditionally called Missa de Galo or Cock Crow because they used to go on well into the early hours of the morning. Christmas Day is marked on 25 December with large family gatherings and feasting.

Food

Rice with fish curry (Xit kodi in Konkani) is the staple diet in Goa. Goan cuisine is renowned for its rich variety of fish dishes cooked with elaborate recipes. Coconut and coconut oil is widely used in Goan cooking along with chili peppers, spices and vinegar giving the food a unique flavour. Pork dishes such as Vindaloo, Xacuti and Sorpotel are cooked for major occasions among the Goan Catholics. An exotic Goan vegetable stew, known as Khatkhate, is a very popular dish during the celebrations of festivals, Hindu and Christian alike. Khatkhate contains at least five vegetables, fresh coconut, and special Goan spices that add to the aroma. Sannas a variant of idli and Koilori a variant of dosa are native to Goa. A rich egg-based multi-layered sweet dish known as bebinca is a favourite at Christmas. The most popular alcoholic beverage in Goa is feni; Cashew feni is made from the fermentation of the fruit of the cashew tree, while coconut feni is made from the sap of toddy palms.

Flora and Fauna

Forest cover in Goa stands at 1,424 km², most of which is owned by the government. Government owned forest is estimated at 1224.38 km² whilst private is given as 200 km². Most of the forests in the state are located in the interior eastern regions of the state. The Western Ghats, which form most of eastern Goa, have been internationally recognised as one of the biodiversity hotspots of the world. In the February 1999 issue of National Geographic Magazine, Goa was compared with the Amazon and Congo basins for its rich tropical biodiversity.

Goa's wildlife sanctuaries boast of more than 1512 documented species of plants, over 275 species of birds, over 48 kinds of animals and over 60 genera of reptiles.

Rice is the main food crop with pulses, ragi and other food crops are also grown. Main cash crops are coconuts, cashewnuts, arecanuts, sugarcane and fruits like pineapples, mangos and bananas. The State has a rich forest cover of more than 1,424 km². Goa's state animal is the Gaur, the state bird is the Ruby Throated Yellow Bulbul, which is a variation of Black-crested Bulbul, and the state tree is the Asan.

The important forests products are bamboo canes, Maratha barks, chillar barks and the bhirand. Coconut trees are ubiquitous and are present in almost all areas of Goa barring the elevated regions. A large number of deciduous vegetation consisting of teak, sal, cashew and mango trees are present. Fruits include jackfruits, mangos, pineapples and blackberries.

Foxes, wild boars and migratory birds are found in the jungles of Goa. The avifauna includes kingfishers, mynas and parrots. Numerous types of fish are also caught off the coast of Goa and in its rivers. Crabs, lobsters, shrimps, jellyfish, oysters and catfish form some of the piscine catch. Goa also has a high snake population, which keeps the rodent population in control. Goa has many famous National Parks, including the renowned Salim Ali bird sanctuary. Other wildlife sanctuaries include the Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary, Molem Wildlife Sanctuary, Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Madei Wildlife Sanctuary, Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary and the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary located on the island of Chorao.

Goa has more than 33% of its geographic area under government forests (1224.38 km²) of which about 62% has been brought under Protected Areas (PA) of Wildlife Sanctuaries and National Park. Since there is a substantial area under private forests and a large tract under cashew, mango, coconut, etc. plantations, the total forest and tree cover constitutes 56.6% of the geographic area.

Holidays

The three official public holidays in India are Republic Day (January 26), Independence Day (August 15), and Mahatma Gandhi's Birthday (2 October). In addition to these, holidays are called during major festivals such as Diwali, Dussehra and Holi, Nanak Jayanti, Buddha Jayanti, and Easter and Christmas.

History

Goa's known history stretches back to the 3rd century BC, when it formed part of the Mauryan Empire. It was later ruled by the Satavahanas of Kolhapur, around 2000 years ago it was passed on to the Chalukya Dynasty, who controlled it between 580 to 750. Over the next few centuries Goa was successively ruled by the Silharas, the Kadambas and the Chalukyas of Kalyani, rulers of Deccan India.

In 1312, Goa came under the governance of the Delhi Sultanate. However, the kingdom's grip on the region was weak, and by 1370 they were forced to surrender it to Harihara I of the Vijayanagara empire. The Vijayanagara monarchs held on to the territory until 1469, when it was appropriated by the Bahmani sultans of Gulbarga. After that dynasty crumbled, the area fell to the hands of the Adil Shahis of Bijapur who established as their auxiliary capital the city known under the Portuguese as Velha Goa.

In 1510, the Portuguese defeated the ruling Bijapur kings with the help of a local ally, Timayya, leading to the establishment of a permanent settlement in Velha Goa (or Old Goa).

The Portuguese encouraged the spread of Christianity, often with repressive measures, such as the Goan Inquisition, leading to a significant population converting to Christianity. The repeated wars of the Portuguese with the Marathas and the Deccan sultanate, along with their repressive religious policies led to large migrations of Goans to neighboring areas.

In 1843 the capital was moved to Panjim from Velha Goa. By mid-18th century the area under occupation had expanded to most of Goa's present day state limits. Simultaneously the Portuguese lost other possessions in India until their borders stabilized and formed the Estado da India Portuguesa, of which Goa was the largest territory.

After India gained independence from the British in 1947, Portugal refused to negotiate with India on the transfer of sovereignty of their Indian enclaves. On 12 December 1961, the Indian army commenced with Operation Vijay resulting in the annexation of Goa, Damman and Diu into the Indian union. Goa, along with Daman and Diu was made into a centrally administered Union Territory of India. On 30 May 1987, the Union Territory was split, and Goa was elevated as India's twenty-fifth state, with Daman and Diu remaining Union Territories.

Language

The Goa, Daman and Diu Official Language Act, 1987 makes Konkani in the Devanagari script the sole official language of Goa, but provides that Marathi may also be used for "for all or any of the official purposes". The Government also has a policy of replying in Marathi to correspondence received in Marathi. However, whilst there have been demands for according Marathi and Konkani in Roman script co-equal status in the state, As of October 2008, Konkani remained the sole official language.

The most widely used languages are Konkani, Marathi and English. Konkani is the primary spoken language and official; Marathi and English are used for literary, educational and some official purposes. Other languages in wide use include Hindi, Kannada and Portuguese. Portuguese, the language of the colonial elite, is used by shrinking number of speakers, though a small number still prefer it as the medium for discourse at home, and a few Portuguese books have even been published in recent years.

Legal

For a long time Goa was a place where you could indulge in all sorts of illicit drugs with relative ease they were cheap, good quality, readily available and the risks were minimal. Ecstasy and LSD (acid) are still the drug of choice for many ravers, and hashish (charas) is widely available - often brought down from Manali and the Kullu Valley in Himachal Pradesh, and peddled around the beach resorts.

Would-be users should not be lulled into a false sense of security in Goa; think extremely carefully about the risks before partaking. In addition to the fact that overdoses happen even in paradisal Goa, the drug laws in India are among the toughest in the world; possession of even a relatively small amount of hash (say 10g) can lead to 10 years in jail and a Rs 100,000 fine. Aguada Jail houses a number of prisoners, including Westerners, who are serving drug-related sentences.

Police

There was a period when police often conducted 'raids' of foreigners in Goa. These would take place at roadblocks or even at private homes or hotel rooms. Usually searches yielded nothing, but there were occasions where hapless searchees were planted with drugs and ended up in prison. Incidents of raids have decreased in recent years, perhaps in part due to increased efforts of the government to crack down on corruption in the public service. However, the fact remains that both drugs and corruption are still a problem in Goa, with rampant drug use giving poorly paid policemen opportunities for extortion.

Probably the best way to deal with police extortion should it happen to you is through polite (and though it might pain you), respectful persuasion. If that fails, attempt to bargain down the 'fine' before paying up, and try to establish the identity (or at least a good mental image) of the policeman.

In practical terms, the most contact the average traveller is likely to have with the law will be on the street; you may be unlucky enough to be flagged down for not wearing a helmet on certain parts of the NH17, or checked for papers by an opportunistic police officer who is hoping to extract a 'fine'. If this happens, keep your cool and you may be able to negotiate the fine down to Rs 0. For more information about suchencounters.

The Directorate of Vigilance has been established by the government of Goa in a bid to stamp out corruption of public servants. You can file an anonymous complaint about police through www.goavigilance.nic.in/.

Smoking & Spitting

On 1 January 2000 a law came into force in Goa banning smoking, spitting and the chewing of tobacco in all public places. It's a welcome move, but clearly impossible to enforce except in government buildings and places like train stations where transgressors face a Rs 1000 fine. Smoking is banned in many enclosed restaurants, especially if there is air-con, while other restaurants have nonsmoking areas. Both laws are implemented in Goa in a typically susegad (relaxed or laid-back) style; ashtrays are often provided in restaurants that bear 'no smoking signs' and a casual observer could assume that spitting is actually mandatory.

Money

The rupee (Rs) is divided into 100 paise (p). There are coins of 5, 10, 20, 25 and 50 paise, and Rs 1, 2 and 5, as well as notes of Rs 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and even 1000, which feel all the more valuable because they're so hard to come by.

ATMs are so commonly available now that you can rely on them as your primary source of cash, though hard currency (or travellers cheques) is recommended as backup. You need to show your passport when you are changing money or cashing travellers cheques.

ATMs

Several banks have introduced 24-hour ATMs into Goa, and more are constantly opening. These take international cards using the Cirrus, Maestro, MasterCard and Visa networks. The main banks with ATMs are ICICI, Centurion, HDFC and UTI. Often ATMs are not actually attached to a bank branch but are instead installed in shopping areas purely as cash-dispensing machines. They are usually in an air-conditioned cubicle (which you may need your card to access) and are guarded by 24-hour armed security. You can currently find ATMs in Panaji, Margao, Mapusa, Calangute, Candolim, Vasco da Gama, Ponda and Colva. Plan ahead when you're heading to the beaches away from these.

Cash

It pays to have some US dollars, pounds sterling or Euros for times when you can't change travellers cheques or use a credit card. You won't have any problem changing money in the tourist areas. The best rates are usually at Thomas Cook and the State Bank of India. Next best are private moneychangers. Hotels offer the least attractive rates. When changing money, don't accept notes that are damaged because you might be hard-pressed to pass them on.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are accepted in most major tourist centers, but don't expect to be able to use a card in budget hotels or restaurants. Upmarket hotels accept them, as do most travel agencies and practically all department stores. MasterCard and Visa are the most widely accepted cards. Cash advances on credit cards can be made at branches of Thomas Cook and Bank of Baroda, as well as at most moneychangers (which are often travel agencies) at the beach resorts.

Encashment Certificates

All money is meant to be changed at official banks or moneychangers, and you are supposed to be given an encashment certificate for each transaction. These can be useful if you want to re-exchange excess rupees for hard currency, buy a tourist-quota train ticket, or if you need to show a tax clearance certificate. ATM receipts serve the same purpose.

International Transfers

International money transfers can be arranged through Thomas Cook or Western Union; both have branches in Panaji and some of the larger towns in Goa. Charges for this service are high - if you have a credit card it's cheaper to get someone to deposit money in your home account and draw a cash advance.

Moneychangers

Private moneychangers are everywhere in towns and beach resorts. They keep longer hours than banks, and are quick and efficient. Many travel agencies double as exchange offices and give cash advances on credit cards. Check rates at the banks first.

Tipping & Baksheesh

Although tipping is not necessary, particularly if you're hanging out on one of the more remote beaches, most people tip staff in their hotel and at restaurants. A waiter or a room boy gets paid about Rs 1000 to 2000 a month (US$25 to US$50), so they rely heavily on the tips they pick up in the tourist season.

There's no need to go overboard; Rs 10 to 20 is about right for members of the hotel staff who help you out, and the normal 10% figure is adequate in restaurants.

Some hotels and restaurants prefer that you contribute to a general tips box so money can be distributed evenly among staff. It's not necessary to tip taxi drivers for short trips, but it's normal to tip the driver if you've hired a car for a day. The term 'baksheesh' encompasses tipping and a lot more besides. In some situations it is an opportunity to respectfully give charity, in others it is a necessity to get things done.

Travellers Cheques

All major brands of travellers cheques are accepted in India, with American Express (Amex) and Thomas Cook being the most widely traded. Pounds sterling, Euros and US dollars are the safest bet. Charges for changing travellers cheques vary but hot competition among private moneychangers means you can usually change cheques without commission.

All travellers cheques are replaceable, but this does little good if you have to go home and apply for them at your bank. Keep an emergency stash of cash in a separate place from your cheques, along with a record of cheque serial numbers, proof of purchase slips and your passport number.

American Express and Thomas Cook travellers cheques are easiest to replace in Goa, provided you have the right documentation. If your travellers cheques are lost or stolen, contact the following offices in Panaji immediately:

American Express (0832-2432960; Menezes Air Travel, Ourem Rd)

Thomas Cook(0832-2221312; www.thomascook.co.in; 8 Alcon Chambers, Dayanand Bandodkar Margao 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat year round, 10am-Spm Sun Oct-Mar)

People and Culture

The tableau of Goa showcases religious harmony by focusing on the Deepastambha, the Cross, Ghode Modni followed by a chariot. Western royal attire of kings and regional dances being performed depict the unique blend of different religions and cultures of the State. The festival of music and dance Shigmo Mel signifies unity in diversity. Besides Shigmo, festivals such as Ganesh Chaturthi (Chavoth-Konkani), Diwali, Christmas, Easter, Samsar Padvo, and the Carnival are also celebrated in by the people of Goa. Goa is also known for its New Year's celebrations. The Goan Carnival is known to attract a large number of tourists.

Post

The Indian postal and paste resta10nte services are generally good. Letters almost always reach you, and letters you send almost invariably reach their destination, although they can take up to three weeks.

It costs Rs 8 to send a small postcard or aerogramme anywhere in the world from India, and Rs 15 for a large postcard or a standard letter (up to 20g).

Receiving Mail

Have letters addressed to you with your surname in capitals and underlined, followed by paste rest ante, GPO and the city or town in question. Many 'lost' letters are simply misfiled under given (Christian) names, so always check under both your given and last names. Letters sent via paste restante are generally held for one month only, after which they might be returned to the sender or just left in a box under the counter until they disintegrate.

Sending Mail

Sending parcels from Goa requires a little, more than fronting up at the post office with your package, though it may take you a couple of trips before your parcel is on its merry way. First, take the parcel to a wrapping service (there's usually one very close to the post office - look for signs reading 'parcel post'), and get it stitched up. It call be quite an experience to watch your package get transformed with boxes, linen, calico and newspaper. You may even find that your possessions are sewn up with a needle and thread, and the stitching sealed with wax.

Book packages (up to 5kg) can be sent without a customs form and for considerably less money. They will need to be wrapped so that the contents of your parcel can be inspected on the way.

At the post office you'll get the necessary customs declaration forms, which will be attached to the parcel. To avoid excise duty at the delivery end, specify that the contents are a 'gift' with a value less than Rs 1000.

Express Mail Service (EMS) Speedpost is available at major post offices (such as Panaji and Margao), and charges to various destinations are as follows:

Australia Rs 700 for the first kilogram, plus Rs 300 for each additional kilogram.
Europe (including the UK) Rs 950 for the first kilogram, plus Rs 300 for each additional kilogram.
USA Rs 775 for the first kilogram, plus Rs 400 for each additional kilogram.

This is more expensive than ordinary post (which will cost Rs 570/645/500 for 1kg respectively), but is faster and much more reliable.

Sending parcels in the other direction (to India) is akin to gambling. Don't count on anything bigger than a letter getting to you. And don't count on a letter getting to you if there's anything of value inside it.

Telephone and Fax

Even in the smallest town in Goa you'll find private STD/ISD call booths that have direct local, interstate and international dialing. Usually found in shops or other businesses, they are easy to spot because of the large STD/ISD/PCO signs advertising the service. Travel agencies and Internet places also generally offer a telephone service. Phone calls are digitally metered so you can keep an eye on the cost while you're talking and there are no nasty surprises at the end. Some booths offer a callback service for a small per minute charge, but there's no such thing as a free reverse charge call.

Direct international calls from these phones cost Rs 25 to 40 per minute, depending on the country you are calling. Internet cafes are starting to set up Internet phone facilities, by far the cheapest way of making an international call.

Fax

Many telephone offices have fax machine but are not cheap or consistent. Sending a fax internationally can cost between Rs 40 and 100 per page, plus line time. Faxes sent within India should only cost around Rs 10 per page. You can receive faxes for around Rs 10 per page. Private Internet cafes and telephone offices often offer this service, and many hotels have fax facilities.

Mobile Phones

These have been embraced with a passion in India, and if you intend to spend some time in Goa it may be worth getting hooked up to the local network. Call costs - even international calls - are relatively cheap in India.

You can bring your own handset and instantly get connected to a prepaid account on one of the local networks. The most popular companies are Idea (www.ideacellular.com), formerly AT&T, Airtel (www.airtelworld.com) and BPL (www.bplmobile.com). Your phone will only work in Goa and parts of Maharashtra, although most operators have a 'roaming' facility that allows you to receive calls and send SMS messages outside Goa. A SIM card (from a PCO/STD/ISD booth, private office or Internet cafe) costs around Rs 100, plus an initial amount of call time. You may need a photograph of yourself and a copy of your passport when signing onto a network.

Top-up cards come in various denominations; the more credit on your phone, the cheaper the call rate. Call rates within India are around Rs 1 per minute and you can call internationally for less than Rs 30 per minute. SMS messaging is even cheaper at around Rs 5 per text message. Note that calls to your mobile phone are also charged to your account - check the network coverage and call costs for the specific places you'll be contacting before you commit to a service.

Cell Tone ( 0832-2422888; 7 Kamat Nagar Apt) in Panaji (opposite Hotel Marva, off MG Rd), is a reliable place to get hooked up to the local mobile phone network.

Phone Codes

The area code for all places within the state of Goa is 0832, which you only need to dial when calling from outside the state or from a mobile phone.

To make an international call, you need to dial 00 (international access code from India), plus the country code (of the country you are calling), the area code and local number.

To make a call to Goa from outside the country, dial the international access code of the country you are in plus 91 (international country code for India), then 832 (Goa' s area code omitting the initial 0) and then the local number.

Theater

Tiatr and Zagor are the chief forms of Goa's traditional performance arts. Other forms are Ranmale, Dashavatari, Kalo, Goulankala, Lalit, Kala and Rathkala. Stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata along with more modern social subjects are narrated with song and dance. The drummers, keyboard artists, and guitarists are part of the show and give the background score.

Margao is the cultural center of drama arts. Famous dramatists include Prince Jacob, Rosefern, Joaquim Jack, Pascoal Rodrigues, Menino de Bandar, Mario Menezes And Mr Rosario Agnelo Dias one of the Most famous Actor Writer Director . At Around 50 new roman scripts are released and 100 Konkani music CDs and DVDs are released on the Goan market every year.

Time

India is 5 ½ hours ahead of GMT/UTe, 4 ½ hours behind Australia (EST) and 10 ½ hours ahead of America (EST). It is officially known as IST - Indian Standard Time, although many Indians prefer to think it stands for Indian Stretchable Time! When it's noon in London, it's 5.30pm in Goa.

Tourist Information

Within Goa there are representatives of the National Ministry of Tourism (www.incredibleindia.org), and the state government's tourist efforts: Goa Tourism (www.goatourism.org) and Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC; www.goa-tourism.com). From the tourist's perspective, the latter are one and the same. The Government of India tourist office is next to the Municipal Gardens in Panaji, and there are GTDC tourist information counters in Panaji, Margao, Mapusa, Vasco da Gama and at Dabolim Airport.

Tourist Offices Abroad

The Government of India Ministry of Tourism maintains a string of tourist of-fices in other countries where you can get brochures, leaflets and some information about India.

Australia
02-9264 4855; indtour@ozemail.com.au; 2nd fl, Piccadilly, 210 Pitt 5t, Sydney NSW 2000

Canada
416-9623787; indiatourism@bellnet.ca; 60 Bloor St West, Ste No 1003, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8

France
01 45 23 30 45; indtourparis@aol.com; 1-13 Bis Blvd Hausmann, 75008 Paris

Germany
069-242 94 90; info@india-tourism.com; Baseler Strasse 46, 60329 Frankfurt-am-Main 1

Italy
028 05 35 06; info@indiatourismmilan.com; Via Albricci 9, 20122 Milan

Japan
0357-15062;indtour@smile.ocn.ne.jp; Pearl Bldg, 7-9-18 Ginza Chou-Ku, Tokyo 104

Netherlands
0206-208991; info.nl@india-tourism.com; Rokin 9-15, 1012 KK Amsterdam

Singapore
6235 8677; indtour.sing@pacific.net.sg; 20 Kramat Lane, £01-01A United House, 228773 Singapore

South Africa
011-325 0880; goito@global.co.za;PO Box 412452, Craig Hall 2020, Johannesburg-2000

Sweden
08-215081; info.se@india-tourism.com; Sveavagen 9-11, S-1I157, Stockholm 11157

UK
020-7437 3677; info@indiatouristoffice.org; 7 Cork St, London W1X 2LN

United Arab Emirates
04-227 4848; goirto@emirates.net.ae; Post Box 12856; NASA Bldg, AI Maktoum Rd, Dubai

USA
New York 212-5864901; Suite 1808, 1270 Ave of the Americas, New York, NY 10020;
Los Angeles 213-3808855; indiatourismla@aol.com; Suite 204, 3550 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90010

Visa

Foreign Nationals desirous of coming into India are required to possess a valid passport of their country and a valid Indian Visa.

There is no provision of 'Visa on Arrival' in India and no fee is charged for immigration facilities at the airports. Foreign passengers should ensure that they are in possession of valid Indian Visa before they start their journey to India except nationals of Nepal and Bhutan who do not require visa to enter India and nationals of Maldives who do not require visa for entry in India for a period up to 90 days (a separate Visa regime exists for diplomatic/official passport holders).

The Consular Passport and Visa (CPV) Division of the Ministry of External Affairs is responsible for issuance of Indian visas to the foreign nationals for their visit for various purposes. This facility is granted through various Indian missions abroad.

Visa fees are non-refundable and subject to change without notice. The High Commission reserves the right on granting and deciding type/duration of visa irrespective of the fees tendered at the time of making application. Granting of Visa does not confer the right of entry to India and is subject to the discretion of the Immigration Authorities.

Types of visa

Type	Period	Documents required
Tourist Visa	6 months	Docs supporting the applicant's financial standing
Business Visa	One or more years	Letter from the sponsoring organisation
Student Visa	For the duration of the academic course of study or for a period of five years whichever is less	Proof of admission to recognized Universities/Institutions in India
Transit Visa	Maximum For 15 Days	Evidence of onward travel to a destination outside India
Conference Visa	For the duration of the conference or seminar	Letter of invitation from the organiser of the conference

Get passport form here

Visa Application Form

Visa application form is available at the office of Indian Embassy in the country where the NRI/PIO resides. Visa form for nationals of Pakistan and Bangladesh are generally different. All NRIs/PIOs, including children (who don't possess OCI or PIO card) need to apply for Visa in separate visa forms.

Procedure for obtaining Visa

Visas can be applied for in person or by post at the High Commission of India based in the country from where the candidate intends to depart for India. Specific visas are granted for a variety of purposes that are aforementioned.

Requirements for Visa

Generally the following documents are required for obtaining Indian Visa. However, the requirement may vary from country to country.

• Original passport valid for at least 6 months
• Visa fee
• Two passport size photographs
• Supporting documents, where necessary
• Duly completed application form

Visa for NRIs and PIOs

Persons of Indian Origins and Non-Resident Indians who possess either OCI (Overseas Indian Citizenship) or PIO card don't need Indian Visa. OCI and PIO give them the freedom to visit India without visa. OCI and PIO cards are multi-purpose life long visa for visiting India.

However, those NRIs and PIOs who don't have OCI or PIO card can apply for and get Indian visa through the procedure mentioned above. For more details visit our Section on the same by clicking here

Related Links:

• Ministry of External Affairs
• Consular Division
• Bureau of Immigration
• Visa and Passport Facts
• Foreigners Division
• Form for Visa Related Services

Activities

The number of activities on offer in Goa has steadily increased over the years. Some of the busier beach towns are flooded with courses and treatments in everything from art appreciation and Ayurveda to shiatsu and sitar playing. Keep your eyes on cluttered notice boards to see what's going on.

Ayurveda

Ayurveda is an ancient method of holistic healing deriving from Kerala. The most popular Ayurvedic treatment among tourists is the ubiquitous oil massage.

Your Ayurvedic experience in Goa can be a hit and miss affair. There are some extremely established operators giving very professional treatments, whereas other operators have set up shop with no more than a vague idea and a vat of oil. Some of the options in Goa:

Ayurvedic Natural Health Centre (ANHC; 0832-2409275,0832-2409036; www.healthandayurveda.com) An accredited centre in Baga with lots of Information. Some massages can be better than others here.
Kailas Kerala Traditional Ayurveda Centre (0832-2643472; www.bhaktikutir.com; 296 Palolem, Patnem) Based in Bhakti Kutir at Patnem Beach.
Palolem Ayurvedic Centre (0832-22640193; palolemayurvedlccentre@yahoo.co.in) This Ayurvedic centre in Palolem is recommended.
Pousada Tauma (0832-2279061; www.pousada-tauma.com) An upmarket option in Calangute.

Bird-Watching

It seems that the beach distracts people from the birds; it's a little known fact that Goa is actually a prime bird-watching area. One of the best places to do it is Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.
Southern Bird wing (0832-2402957; www.southernbirdwing.com)is a reputable organization that organizes bird-watching excursions.

Diving

Although Goa is not internationally renowned as a diving destination, its waters are regarded as the third-best spot for diving in India (after the Andaman and Lakshadweep Islands). You can also make dive excursions to sites off the Karnataka coast.

The shallow waters off the coast are ideal for less experienced divers; typical dives are at depths of 10m to 12m, with abundant marine life to be seen. The only problem is that visibility is unpredictable; on some days it's 30m, on others it's closer to 2m. The dive season is from November to April.

Marine life you are likely to encounter include tropical fish such as angelfish, parrotfish, wrasses, lionfish, sharks (reef tip and shovel-nosed among others), stingrays, gropers, snapper, damselfish, barracuda, sea cucumbers and turtles. The highlights of diving in Goa are the wreck dives - there are literally hundreds of wrecks along Goa's coastline, including Portuguese and Spanish galleons and more recent wrecks of merchant and naval ships.

Popular dive sites include Grande Island and St George's Island. South of Goa, off the Karnataka coast, Devbagh Island (near Karwar) and Pigeon Island are popular.

The following dive schools are all affiliated with the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI):
Barracuda Diving (0832-2437001; www.barracudadiving.com) This place is based in Panaji.
Goa Dive Center (+91-9822157094; www.goadivecenter.com) Operates out of Sinquerim and Baga, with its main office on Tito's Rd. for more information.
Goa Diving (0832-2555117; 0832-2538204; www.goadiving.com; goadivin@sancharnet.in; House No 145P, Chapel Bhat, Chicalim 403711) This Bogmalo-based company runs trips and courses.

Motorcycling & Cycling

Most tourists hire a moped or motorcycle at some time during their stay in Goa, but few venture further than the next beach or the nearest town. There are some worthwhile longer rides:

• From Benaulim or Cavelossim, ride down the coast road via Betul, Cabo da Rama and Agonda to Palolem.
• From Calangute, Anjuna or Vagator, head up the coast via Morjim and Man-drem to Arambol.
• From Arambol, ride up to Terekhol Fort.
• From Panaji, ride out to Old Goa and across to Divar Island, or continue to Ponda to explore the Hindu temples and spice plantations.
• From Margao, explore Salcete taluka (district) around Chandor and Loutolim.

Shorter rides (such as Panaji to Old Goa or Palolem to Rajbag) can also be done by bicycle.

Paragliding & Kite-Surfing

Paragliding is common thing to do in season, when many instructors (mostly Europeans) set up in beach towns. Kite-surfing is also on the rise, and Goa is attracting more and more kite-surfing junkies. Often operators are working illegally and don't advertise; ask around or approach people who are engaged in the act - chances Art they'll take you along for a fee.

The scene changes from season to season; at the time of research, there was lively paragliding scene in Anjuna and Vagator Beaches in North Goa, and Arambol Beach was the place where the kite-surfers congregated.

Rafting & Kayaking

Although not in Goa itself, Dandeli wildlife Sanctuary is only a couple of hours drive across the border in Karnataka, and here you can try white-water rafting, kayaking and caving.

Kali Rafting (www.kalirafting.com) is a good place to start Internet-based research.
Day Tripper Tours & Travel (0832-2276726; www.daytrippergoa.com; Calangute-Candolim Rd, Calangute) in Calangute. In south Goa, Pepper Valley in the Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, arranges tours that include rafting.

Yoga

Yoga courses are as common as cows in Goa, and many world-class teachers flock here over season. You could take your chances with a random flyer, but it may be better to contact an established organization that runs yoga courses and classes. Some places run courses in conjunction with accommodation. Popular places for yoga in Goa:

Ayurvedic Natural Health Centre (ANHC; 0832-2409275, 0832-2409036; www.healthandayurveda.com)
Bhakti Kutir (0832-2643472; www.bhaktikutir.com; 296 Palolem, Patnem) Yoga is part of this holistic accommodation experience on Patnem Beach.
Healing Here & Now (0832-32273487; www.healinghereandnow.com; St Michael's Vaddo)
Himalaya Iyengar Yoga Centre (www.hiyogacentre.com; Arambol Beach).
Purple Valley Yoga Centre (+91-9370568639; www.yogagoa.com) In Anjuna.
Yoga Magic (0832-5623796; www.yogamagic.net) Stay in Rajasthani tents at this memorable place near Anjuna.

Business hours

Just about the only rule about bu. hours in Goa is that many Goan shop offices knock off for a siesta anywhere between 12.30pm and 3pm. Apart from this government offices are open from 1Oam to 5pm Monday to Saturday, and are closed every second Saturday. Sunday is a day of rest, and the business districts of towns like Panaji and Margao are ghost towns.

Banks are generally open from 10am to 2pm Monday to Friday, and 10am to noon on Saturday. To compete with moneychangers, which keep normal (and sometimes extended) business hours, some banks now have extended hours and even open on Sunday. Tourist-oriented businesses such as travel agencies, Internet cafes and souvenir shops stay open on Sundays and well into the evening.

Courses

Cooking

For the moment, there isn't the prolific presence of cooking classes that you'd expect be advertised amid notices promoting music or massage or yoga or reiki. But keep your eyes open; more and more guesthouses and restaurants are starting to realize that there is a market for assisting budding chefs. Some top-end hotels offer cooking classes, and there many operators based in Western countries operate package cooking courses. The Oriental Thai Restaurant (0832-3092809) in Candolim offers Thai cooking courses on Wednesday between 2 pm and 5 pm for a minimum of four people.

UK based company India on the Menu (www.indiaonmenu.com) runs week long cooking courses in various locations around Goa; prices vary according to which accommodation option you choose.

Music & Dance

During season, there are many courses in traditional instruments such as tabla. To find these, check notice boards in popular foreigner hang-outs like Brown Bread in Palolem, the German Bakery in Anjuna and Double Dutch in Arambol.

For more dedicated musicians, the well regarded Kala Academy in Panaji offers fully certified music and dance courses. The school of Indian music at the Kala Academy teaches classical singing, as well as the tabla, sitar and harmonium. The Kala Academy also has school of Western music and a school of dance specializing in kathak and Bharat Natyam dance. The academy also hosts various performances and cultural festivals.

Yoga

Yoga courses are as common as cows in Goa, and many world-class teachers flock here over season. You could take your chances with a random flyer, but it may be better to contact an established organization that runs yoga courses and classes. Some places run courses in conjunction with accommodation. Popular places for yoga in Goa:

Ayurvedic Natural Health Centre (ANHC; 0832-2409275, 0832-2409036; www.healthandayurveda.com)
Bhakti Kutir (0832-2643472; www.bhaktikutir.com; 296 Palolem, Patnem) Yoga is part of this holistic accommodation experience on Patnem Beach.
Healing Here & Now ( 0832-32273487; www.healinghereandnow.com; St Michael's Vaddo)
Himalaya Iyengar Yoga Centre (www.hiyogacentre.com; Arambol Beach).
Purple Valley Yoga Centre (+91-9370568639; www.yogagoa.com) In Anjuna.
Yoga Magic (0832-5623796; www.yogamagic.net) Stay in Rajasthani tents at this memorable place near Anjuna.

Dance and Music

Goan Hindus are very fond of Natak, Bhajan and Kirtan. Many famous Indian Classical singers hail from Goa, such as Lata Mangeshkar, Asha Bhosle, Kishori Amonkar, Kesarbai Kerkar, Jitendra Abhisheki, Prabhakar Karekar. Some traditional Goan dance forms are dekhnni, fugdi, and corridinho.

Danger and Annoyance

Goa is essentially a safe destination for travellers, but this is India and the tourist industry carries with it a few inherent dangers that you should be aware of. Touts, pressure sales tactics and minor scams are annoying but more serious are theft, harassment or women and the occasional mugging that occurs particularly over high season.

Crime

From time to time there are drugging episodes, usually on major tourist routes, UN your brain and your instincts before accepting food or drinks from strangers or even new friends.

There have also been incidents of attack on women. Goans are understandably concerned by these incident and blame them on criminals from neighboring states. Some measures have been introduce such as limited street lighting and security patrols on some beaches, but it's still a good idea for women to wander alone dark areas around beach shacks at night.

It pays for everyone, not just women be wary. Busy resorts are safe enough there are people around, but late at anyone can be vulnerable. Quiet with poor street lighting have proven for travellers wandering alone. People visiting in the low season should avoid staying in isolated accommodation.

Scams

One scam involves groups of teenage pick-pockets posing as students with sponsorship forms. One 'student' engage the victims in conversation while the others pick their pockets. The unfortunate part is that there are also a lot of genuine students who may stop you with a questionnaire or something similar; use your instincts.

Incredibly, the age-old export scam is still doing the rounds in India. Even more incredibly, people are still falling for it. The scam basically involves being befriended and eventually offered the opportunity to export products (jewellery, stones or carpets are common) to sell elsewhere at enormous profit. Or, after you've been plied with meals and entertainment, you'll be given a sob story about your new friend's inability to obtain an export license. Don't be fooled; these guys are smooth operators and even worldly travellers have been successfully buttered up by the initial hospitality and generosity.

At airports, beware of scams to shortchange you when you're exchanging money. Also (particularly if you're arriving on a charter flight) be prepared to be besieged by children and beggars asking for '£ 1 coins' or for some of your home-country currency for their coin collection'. Your contribution will likely be sold back to departing tourists.

Theft

Weigh up whether your passport and other valuables are safer at your hotel or on your person. If you are staying, in a reasonable hotel or family home where there is a safe or similar facility, leave them there, not just in your room. If you're more comfortable taking valuables with you, they should always be in a money belt under your clothing. There have been incidents of violent robberies of tourists in Goa so exercise great caution wherever you are. If you're travelling with expensive equipment like laptops, cameras or iPods, don't casually wave them around. It's also a good idea to padlock backpacks and lock them onto luggage racks or chairs on trains. Beware also of fellow travellers; some are set on defiling the spirit of the travel community by helping themselves to other peoples' things.

If you have something stolen in Goa, you must report it to the police if you want to make an insurance claim at home. According to the accounts of several travellers this is likely to be frustrating; policemen often attempt to dissuade you from filing a report. Being friendly, patient and persistent should get you your paperwork in the end. Reporting a theft does not mean that you will have to stay in Goa, despite what you may be told. Some policemen are friendly and helpful, but if you continually have trouble try enlisting the assistance of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC) in Panaji.

Touts

When arriving by train or bus, visitors may be met by taxi drivers and autorickshaw drivers who want to take you to a 'nice' hotel where nice usually means the one that pays the best commission. The hotels that simply refuse to pay touts risk stories that they are 'full', 'closed for repairs', 'no good any more' or even 'flooded'. It's almost always a lie. Be persistent and check it out for yourself.

Touts do have a use, though - not all of their recommendations are bad ones, and finding a place can be difficult if you arrive during the high season. Hop in an autorikshaw, tell the driver what price you will pay for a hotel, and off you go.

Disabled Travelers

There are few provisions for disabled travellers in Goa outside of the most top-end hotels, and thus the mobility-impaired traveller will face a number of challenges. Few older buildings have wheelchair access; toilets have certainly not been designed to accommodate wheelchairs; and footpaths are generally riddled with potholes and crevices, littered with obstacles and packed with throngs of people. Nevertheless, the difficulties are far from insurmountable and if you want to visit Goa - do it! If your mobility is restricted you will need an able-bodied companion to accompany you, and you'd be well-advised to hire a private vehicle with a driver.

The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR; 020-72503222; www.radar.org.uk; 12 City Forum, 250 City Rd, London EC1V 8AF, UK) may be able to offer further information on the logistics of travelling in India. Also check out Mobility.
International USA (MIUSA;1541-3431284; www.miusa.org; PO Box 10767, Eugene, OR 97440, USA).

For specific information about disability issues in Goa, contact Disability Goa (www.disabilitygoa.com).

Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While overt displays of affection between members of the opposite sex, such as cuddling and hand holding, are frowned upon in India, it is not unusual to see Indian men holding hands with each other or engaged in other close affectionate behavior. This does not mean they are gay.

Homosexual relations between men are illegal in India, although there is no legislation forbidding lesbian relations. The gay movement is confined almost exclusively to larger cities, and Mumbai is really the only place where there's a gay 'scene'. Since marriage is seen as important, being gay has a particular stigma - most stay in the closet or risk being disowned by their families.

However, Goa's liberal reputation draws a lot of gay men, and there's a discreet scene, mainly around the Calangute-Baga area. A couple of the beach shacks are also becoming a bit braver with respect to gay events; on Palolem beach, Cuba hosts a gay night on Wednesday. As with relations between heterosexual Western couples travelling in India, gay and lesbian travellers should exercise discretion and refrain from displaying affection in public.

Insurance

A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a wise idea; if only because of the cosmic law that if you have it you won't need it. There is a wide variety of policies and your travel agent will have recommendations. Some policies specifically exclude 'dangerous activities', which can mean diving, motorcycling and even trekking. This is especially relevant in Goa, where most people hire a scooter or motorcycle at some time. Other increasingly popular activities in Goa are scuba diving and water sports such as water-skiing and paragliding, all of which may require special stipulations when you take out your travel insurance.

If your goods are stolen, you will also be required to file a police report to claim insurance.

Worldwide cover to travellers from over 44 countries is available online here.

Internet Access

Internet and email services in Goa are plentiful, reliable and relatively cheap. In all major towns, beach resorts and even some small villages, you'll easily find somewhere to check email. The most common places offering Internet access are travel agencies and STD/ISD phone offices, but you'll also find many dedicated Internet cafes. Many hotels and guesthouses also offer Internet access for guests. Average charges are around Rs 40 per hour (though some places charge up to Rs 60), usually with a minimum of 15 minutes (Rs 10 to 15), but there are places in Margao, Vasco and Mapusa charging as little as Rs 20 per hour.

If you're travelling with a laptop remember that you'll need a universal adaptor. These are readily available in Goa, though finding a surge protector is more difficult. If you want to ensure that your computer's innards stay intact through power surges, it's worth investing in one at home.

In recent years, wireless Internet has begun to sprout up in various places, though it still isn't common.

Media and Communication

Goa is served by almost all television channels available in India. Channels are received through cable in most parts of Goa. In the interior regions, channels are received via satellite dishes. Doordarshan, the national television broadcaster, has two free terrestrial channels on air.

DTH (Direct To Home) TV services are available from Dish TV, Tata Sky & DD Direct Plus. The All India Radio is the only radio channel in the state, broadcasting in both FM and AM bands. Two AM channels are broadcast, the primary channel at 1287 kHz and the Vividh Bharati channel at 1539 kHz. AIR's FM channel is called FM Rainbow and is broadcast at 105.4 MHz. Private FM radio channels available are Big FM at 92.7 MHz, Radio Mirchi at 98.3 MHz, and Radio Indigo at 91.9 MHz. There is also an educational radio channel, Gyan Vani, run by IGNOU broadcast from Panaji at 107.8 MHz. In 2006, St Xavier's College, Mapusa, became the first college in the state to launch a campus community radio station 'Voice of Xavier's'.

Major cellular service operators include Reliance Infocomm, Tata Indicom, Vodafone (previously Hutch), Bharti Airtel, BSNL and Idea cellular.

Local newspaper publications include the English language The Herald (Goa's oldest, once a Portuguese language paper known as O Heraldo), the Gomantak Times and the Navhind Times. In addition to these, The Times of India and the Indian Express are also received from Bombay and Bangalore in the urban areas. The Times of India has recently started publication from Goa itself serving the local population news directly from the state capital. Among the list of officially-accredited newspapers are The Navhind Times, The Herald Times and The Gomantak Times (all in the English language) and Gomantak, Tarun Bharat, Navprabha, Pudhari, Goa Times, Sanatan Prabhat, Govadoot (all in Marathi), Sunaparant in Devanagari-script Konkani. All are dailies. Other publications in the state include Goa Today (English-language, monthly), Goan Observer (English, weekly), Vavraddeancho Ixtt (Roman-script Konkani, weekly) Goa Messenger, Gulab (Konkani, monthly), Bimb (Devanagiri-script Konkani), Harbour Times, Digital Goa, and "J's House".

The annual advertising festival organized by Advertising Agencies Association of India (AAAI) and The Advertising Club Bombay. Organizers promise a lot more zest and knowledge sharing for the advertising industry at this year's edition. Bookings for Hotels and Resorts for the GoaFest has already began and a large number of delegates are expected in Goa for the AAAI GoaFest.

Photography

Tourists should seek permission from the authorities concerned before taking photographs of places of military importance, railway stations, bridges, airports, military installations, metro trains, tribal areas and sensitive border regions. It is prohibited to take photographs in some of the temples, historical monuments, forts, palaces, tombs and monasteries. Visitors are required to take special permits from the Archaeological Survey of India for photographing monuments with tripods and artificial lights. Camera fee is charged extra in some historical monuments.

Solo Travelers

The general consensus is that travelling in Goa is markedly easier than travelling in the rest of the country, and many solo travellers wander down this way for some relaxation and respite from the challenge of travelling in the rest of India. It's a sociable place, so you only have to be as solo as you want to be. While most visitors to the Calangute-Baga beach resort areas travel in couples or groups, there are many solo travellers further north in the Anjuna-Vagator area and further south around Palolem. Meeting them at beach shacks, bars and parties is not difficult.

The downside to being a solo female is that often people will think that you obviously want company. Keep a book on hand to give off the appearance of busy contentedness so that unwanted company can be deterred. On the whole though, travelling as a solo female couldn't be easier. Attitudes to women are more liberal and accepting than in many other parts of India, and you can largely be yourself without running the risk of misinterpretation and mistreatment. Like anywhere though, there are serious risks to be aware of.

Shopping

Although Goa is not renowned for its handicrafts, a vibrant market culture lures traders from all over India. While this sadly means that you are unlikely to take home much that is genuinely Goan (apart from the odd decorative bottle of feni), it also means that you can find almost anything from Kashmiri carpets to fabrics from Rajasthan, carvings from Karnataka and paintings from Nepal.

The state's biggest market - and one of the state's key tourist attractions - is the Anjuna flea market held every Wednesday in season. Ingo's Saturday Nite Bazaar in Arpora and Mackie's Saturday Night Bazaar in Baga are both tourist-oriented affairs, and make for a great night out. The range of products on offer at these places is exceptional, but locals prefer to shop at local markets where things can cost less; Mapusa's Friday market is a popular one. Panaji and Margao also have busy municipal markets; though you may not find anything you're particularly interested in buying.

In Panaji the main shopping street is 18th June Rd, a long thoroughfare lined with craft and clothing shops, emporiums and shops selling cashews and spices; MG Rd has a collection of modern Western department stores, including Nike, Benetton and Levi's. Perhaps the greatest concentration of department stores, boutiques, jewellery and craft shops is in Calangute, on both the road that leads down to the main beach, and the Calangute-Candolim road. Prices are high here but so is the quality of the merchandise.

Be careful when buying items that include delivery to your home country. You may well be assured that the price includes home delivery and all customs and handling charges, but you may later find that you have to collect the item yourself from your country's main port or airport, and pay customs and handling charges.

Bargaining

While stores in the larger towns often have fixed prices, you are generally expected to bargain at markets, though some Western traders operate on a more efficient system of reasonable first quotes. But, mostly, bargaining is the name of the game. The trick with bargaining is that you should have some idea of what you should be paying for any given article. You can find out by checking prices at fixed-price stores, asking other travellers what they paid and shopping around before settling on a vendor. If all else fails, a general rule of thumb is to offer half the original asking price and work up from there.

At the tourist markets, traders usually start very high with their prices.

What to Buy ANTIQUES

Articles more than 100 years old are not allowed to be exported from India without an export clearance certificate. If you have doubts about any item and think it could be defined as an antique, check with the Archaeological Survey of India at the Archaeological Museum in Old Goa.

BRONZE FIGURES & WOODCARVING

Delightful small images of gods are made by the age-old lost-wax process. In this process, a wax figure is made, a mould is formed around it, and then wax is melted and poured out. Molten metal is poured in and once it's solidified the mould is broken open. Figures of Ganesh, and of Shiva in his incarnation as dancing Nataraja, are among the most popular.

In South India, images of the gods are also carved out of sandalwood. Rosewood is used to carve animals, elephants in particular. Carved wooden furniture and other household items, either in natural finish or lacquered, are also made in various locations.

CARPETS

It may not surprise you that India produces and exports more handcrafted carpets than Iran, but it probably is more of a surprise that some of them are of virtually equal quality. India's best carpets come from Kashmir, and these can be found in traders' shops in Goa.

Carpets are either made of pure wool, wool with a small percentage of silk to give it a sheen (known as 'silk touch'), or pure silk. The latter are more for decoration than hard wear, expect to pay from Rs 7000 for a good quality 1.2m by 1.8m carpet, but don't be surprised if the price is more than twice as high.

CLOTHING

Western-brand clothing stores are all the rage in Panaji and Calangute these days. Big names like Benetton, Levi's, Nike and Lacoste now make much of their produce in India, and these shops, which cater almost exclusively to tourists, sell their brand name gear at prices lower than you'd find at home. Don't expect the cheap knock offs you might pick up in Bangkok - here, Levi jeans go for around Rs 2000 and Lacoste polo shirts retail at Rs 1000.

JEWELLERY

The heavy folk-art jewellery of Rajasthan has particular appeal for Western tastes. Tibetan jewellery is even chunkier and more folk like than the Rajasthani variety, If you're looking for fine jewellery, as opposed to folk jewellery, you may well find that much of what is produced in India is way over the top.

LEATHERWORK

Indian leatherwork is not made from cowhide but from buffalo, camel, goat or some other form of animal. Chappals, the basic sandals found all over India, are the most popular buy.

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS

Indian musical instruments are an interesting buy in India, and you'll see new and second-hand guitars, sitars and tablas at the Anjuna flea market. There are also instrument shops in Panaji and Margao. Easier carry and even easier to play are CDs and tapes. You can find Bollywood soundtracks Goa trance and mainstream Western music at shops and stalls all over Goa for between Rs 100 and 600.

PAPIER-MÂCHÉ

This is probably the most characteristic Kashmiri craft. The basic papier-mâché, article is made in a mould, then painted polished in successive layers until the final intricate design is produced. Prices d upon the complexity and quality n painted design and the amount of Hold used. Items include bowls, cups, containers, jewellery boxes, letter holders, tables,lamps, coasters, trays and so on. A bowl might cost only Rs 50, while a well-made item might approach Rs 1000.

SILKS & SARIS

Silk is cheap and the quality is often excellent. If you are buying a silk sari, it helps to know a bit about the silk and the sari. Saris are 5.5m long, unless they have fabric for a choli (sari blouse) attached, in which case they are 6m. Sari silk is graded and sold by weight (grams per meter).

TEXTILES

This is still India's major industry and 40% of the total production is at the village level, where it is known as khadi (homespun cloth). Bedspreads, tablecloths, cushion covers or fabric for clothing are popular khadi purchases. There is an amazing variety of cloth styles, types and techniques around the country. In Gujarat and Rajasthan heavy material is embroidered with tiny mirrors and beads to produce everything from dresses to stuffed toys to wall hangings. Tiedye work is also popular in Rajasthan and Kerala. In Kashmir embroidered materials are made into shirts and dresses. Batik is a relatively recent introduction from Indonesia that has become widespread; kalamkari (textile art that is hand painted or block printed) cloth from Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat is a similar but older craft.

Sports

Football is perhaps the most popular sport in Goa and is embedded in Goan culture. Its origins in the state are traced back to 1883 when the visiting Irish priest Fr. William Robert Lyons established the sport as part of a "Christian education". On 22 December 1959 the Associacao de Futebol de Goa was formed, which continues to administer the game in the state under the new name, Goa Football Association. Goa, along with West Bengal and Kerala. is the locus of football in the country and is home to many football club in India's National Football League, including three of the ten Premier Division teams. The state's football powerhouses include Salgaocar, Dempo, Churchill Brothers, Vasco Sports Club and Sporting Clube de Goa. The state's main football stadium, Fatroda (or Nehru stadium), is located at Margao and also hosts cricket matches.

In recent decades, a growing influence of cricket is visible, in large part fuelled by the massive coverage this sport gets on national television, thus making an impact even in a part of South Asia which hardly had any contact with the British Empire. Goa now has its own cricket team. Field Hockey is the third most popular sport.

Transport

Most of Goa is well connected by roads.

Goa's sole airport, the Dabolim Airport, is both a military and civilian airport catering to domestic and international airlines that stop en route to other Indian destinations. In addition to regular flights, the airport handles a large number of chartered flights. Goa receives International flights from Dubai, Sharjah and Kuwait in the Middle East and from the United Kingdom, Germany and Russia during the charter flight tourist season. Dabolim airport is serviced by the following carriers - Air India, Indian Airlines, Air Deccan, Kingfisher airlines, Go air, Spice jet, Jet Airways besides Charter flights from Thomas Cook (condor) etc.

National Highway 17 passing through Goa.

Goa's public transport largely consists of privately operated buses linking the major towns to rural areas. Government-run buses, maintained the Kadamba Transport Corporation, links both major routes (like the Panjim-Margao route) and some remote parts of the state. In large towns such as Panjim and Margao, intra-city buses ply. However, public transport in Goa is less developed, and residents depend heavily on their own transport, usually motorised two-wheelers. Goa has two National Highways passing through it. NH-17 runs along India's west coast and links Goa to Bombay in the north and Mangalore to the south. NH-4A running across the state connects the capital Panjim to Belgaum in east, linking Goa to cities in the Deccan. The NH-17A connects NH-17 to Mormugao Harbour from Cortalim, and the new NH-17B, is a four lane highway connecting Mormugao Harbour to NH-17 at another location, Verna, via Dabolim airport. Goa has a total of 224 km (139 mi) of National highway, 232 km (144 mi) of state highway and 815 km of district highway.

Hired forms of transport include unmetered taxis, and, in urban areas, auto rickshaws. A unique form of transport in Goa is the Motorcycle taxi, operated by drivers who are locally called "pilots". These vehicles transport a single pillion rider, at fares that are usually negotiated prior or after the journey (it is always better to ask locals on the correct fare before you try any negotiations yourself). In some places in Goa, there are river crossings which are serviced by the ferry boats, operated by the river navigation departments. Goa has two rail lines one run by the South Western Railway and the other by the Konkan Railway. The line run by the South Western Railway was built during the colonial era linking the port town of Vasco da Gama with Hubli in Karnataka via Margao. The Konkan Railway line, which was built during the 1990s, runs parallel to the coast connecting Mumbai to the Malabar Coast.

Woman Travelers

Foreign women travelling in India have widely been viewed by Indian men as free and easy, based largely on what they see in cheap Western soaps. Fanning this flame is the fact that a sexual revolution has hit India, and marriage before or outside of marriage is less taboo than it once was. This new-found emancipation combined with misconceptions about Western culture, mean that some men are wielding their sexuality like pubescent boys.

This issue in Goa is far from black and white. On one hand, Goa has a (some-times justified) reputation of being a place where women let it all hang out at the beach and are sexually available. Thus for some Indian men, a perfect weekend away with their (male) friends is a trip to Goa, where booze and women are cheap. Generally it doesn't get beyond being extremely annoying - groups of men wander down the beach and either try to chat women up or just stare at them. It's not uncommon for hapless women to be surrounded by groups of Indian men wearing matching 'It's better in Goa' singlet and forcefully requesting a photo, which will later be shown at home as proof that it is, in fact, better in Goa.

On the other hand, Goa is considered to be one of the most liberal states in the country. Women feel safe here and don't need to be as guarded over their behavior as they do in many other parts of the country. Many years of many foreigners visiting this tiny state means that the local understanding of Western culture is nuanced enough that misinterpretations of women's behavior are rarer here than in other parts of India.

But the sad fact remains - people have been raped in Goa. Foreign women have been attacked on secluded beaches at every hour of the day. Rapes have been reported even at busier beach towns during the day. Over Christmas, in particular, there are sometimes signs warning women to not wander off alone - even to go and relieved themselves in a nearby sand dune.

Though the biggest issue you're likely to face is the occasional lewd comment and being ogled at the beach by groups of Indian youths, the risks are real and mean that you should use your judgment. Check for peepholes in hotel rooms and protect your right to public space. Modest standards of dress will go some way towards minimizing problems: topless bathing is illegal, and wearing bikinis and short skirts away from the beach is downright disrespectful. It also pays to keep your wits about you and avoid situations that make you more vulnerable; diminished mental alertness through use of drugs and alcohol will make you far more of a target and far less able to defend yourself.